NYT: A dish of pickled vegetables, smoked bone marrow, flowers and herbs at the “best restaurant in the world”, Noma, in Copenhagen (slide show * * *)
Frank Bruni explains why:
The chef, René Redzepi, is acting on the premise that the most special, inimitable contribution a restaurant can make is to serve the food that is freshest and truest on its given patch of the planet, to sift through that region’s flora and fauna for unfamiliar flavors, to scour its forgotten traditions for ingredients that cooks have stopped using. (Mr. Redzepi works with two Danish food historians.)
Danes long ago used the ashes of hay as a seasoning, so Mr. Redzepi does, too: they smell vaguely of popcorn…
