Time has picked the 13 “Gods of Food” for its November cover package, virtually ignoring the goddesses, and made it worse by excluding them in the accompanying graphic of culinary influences. Its editor Howard Chua-Eoan, in an interview with Eater:
Why are there no female chefs on the chef family tree?
"Well I think it reflects one very harsh reality of the current chefs’ world, which unfortunately has been true for years: it’s still a boys club… And when you look at this chart it’s very clear. It’s all men because men still take care of themselves. The women really need someone — if not men, themselves actually — to sort of take care of each other."
Why did you decide not to include any female chefs among your Gods of Food?
"[N]one of them have a restaurant that we believe matches the breadth and size and basically empire of some of these men that we picked. They have the reputation and all that and it’s an unfortunate thing."
“I don’t make the sad news; I just reflect it, like a mirror.”
From a NYT discussion: Why Do Female Chefs Get Overlooked?
“No women chefs among the magazine’s Gods of Food? Outrageous but accurate and, for that matter, obvious. …The relevant issue is why women do not move up in the kitchens of major restaurants… I suspect it’s due to restaurant kitchens’ militaristic command structure, and women tend not to thrive in such situations. (Don’t get me wrong; they’re not doing so well in other fields, either —- only two of the 10 most important ballet companies in the world are led by women.)
Excessive manliness is widespread in restaurant kitchens. … Female cooks have always been treated appallingly. Include sexual harassment — more verbal than physical — in the list of transgressions. So it’s no surprise that relatively few have even entered the business, much less gotten to the top.”
"Press coverage matters. David Chang, one of Time’s cover boys, would not be where he is today if he had not received an enormous amount of glowing and supportive press early in his career. …
Some people might assume that if the press isn’t giving more coverage to women then it’s because there aren’t enough female chefs who deserve the coverage. I would suggest that if you think the word “deserve” has anything to do with who gets press coverage then you don’t know anything about the real world. …
When Alain Ducasse opened his first restaurant in New York City, The Los Angeles Times wrote that he was the only chef in the history of Michelin to have six Michelin stars. Several other articles echoed this misinformation. The fact is, Eugénie Brazier, a woman, earned six Michelin stars all the way back in 1933. So it would help if more journalists knew the history of the field they’re covering.”
"[W]hat does the supremely intelligent and thoughtful Thomas Keller think of being on a list that excludes his influential female colleagues? How ashamed is David Chang to have allowed his beautiful talented face to appear on the cover to represent the club that starves, or at least underfeeds, his sisters?”